Following Manual

Internal parts of the pump are made of Buna-N rubber, aluminum, brass and stainless steel. The pump can be used with oil, water, or other compatible fluids. Use of water will accelerate wear of “O” rings and some sticking of piston may result. The recommended fluid is any petroleum based hydraulic oil, light weight motor oil or mineral oil. Do not use brake fluid or synthetic oils; they may crack the polycarbonate reservoir or cause swelling or decomposition of the “O” rings. To prevent damage to the pump and possible injury, never connect your pump to a pressure source greater than 35 MPa (5000 PSIG, 350 bar). Turn off, or isolate, all pressure-generating equipment from the pressure tap prior to connecting the pump. Your pump has two connections: A 1⁄4” female NPT pressure port for a reference gauge like an XP2i digital test gauge or 30 Series calibrator (figure 1) and a hose adapter with integral shutoff valve (figure 2). Always use PTFE (polytetrafluoro-ethylene) tape on the threads of any pressure fittings installed into the NPT port. Connect your reference gauge, or plug the 1⁄4” female NPT port prior to priming or using your pump. As for the hose connection, we offer a wide variety of conversion fittings to permit using the system with most commonly used fittings.

Download: Hydraulic Pump 2819 and 2820 HYDRAULIC HAND PUMPS Instruction Manual

Before road travel always ensure the rail gear is fully raised and the locks are properly engaged. Make sure the steering lock is disengaged. • The steering and braking characteristics of your vehicle will be different due to the rail gear. If you are driving the vehicle for the first time, familiarize yourself with the steering and braking by driving the vehicle in a safe place before taking the vehicle on the road. • Be aware that your vehicle may have reduced ground clearance due to the rail gear. • Approach and departure angles may be different due to the rail gear. This will affect the way you approach dips, ditches, inclines and other surface irregularities. • Do not use the rail gear as a hitch for towing vehicles or dragging objects. Use the correct hitch points on the vehicle frame.

Find a suitable road crossing to position the vehicle on rail. If necessary set up cautionary devices to ensure safety. 2. Position the vehicle with the road wheel tires on the rails, and the rail wheel flanges positioned centrally above the railhead. Backing into position is usually easier. 3. Put the vehicle’s transmission into park or neutral. Set the parking brake. 4. Engage the PTO hydraulic pump or start the auxiliary hydraulic power source. 5. The rear will be placed on rail first. a. Raise the rail gear up a bit to relieve the pressure on the lock hook. b. Pull the T-handle for the lock to swing the hook out of the way. c. Lower the rail gear into position on the rail. d. Release the T-handle for the lock. 6. Check the alignment of the front rail wheels with the track – it might be necessary to adjust the position of the vehicle. 7. The front rail gear will now be lowered. a. Raise the rail gear up a bit to relieve the pressure on the pin lock. b. Remove the both pins from the upper holes. c. Lower the rail gear. d. Install the lock pins in the lower holes. 8. Engage the steering lock. 9. Drive the vehicle forward and backward a few yards to check vehicle’s operation and brakes. 10. Vehicle is now ready for rail travel.

Download: FORD ARIES F450-F550 PARTS AND SERVICE MANUAL

Alfa Romeo 156 Car Test Owner manual. Alfa Romeo 156-EVEN THE VERY NAME IS evocative-has never hit the big time in the UK, but it hasp roduced asteadystreamof soul-stirring cars in the past, and Alfa Romeo 156 Car Test Owner manual nota few highly desirable ones more recently. What it has really needed, though, isa volume seller- something to square up to executive sporting machinery from the likes of BMW and Audionamoreequal footing, where areas like build quality, durability and cabin design receive just as much attention as Alfa has traditionally lavished on the adrenaline-stirring bits under the bonnet. Cue the Alfa 156. Although it shares some underbody commonality with other Fiat Group cars, the 156′snewdouble wishbone front and coil-suspended, multi-link rear suspension gives it a make-up all of its own. The 156′s sideways-mounted, in-line four-cylinder engines are something special, too, shoehorning four valves-per-cylinder and a brace of spark plugs into each

Download: Alfa Romeo 156 Car Test Owner manual

The Accent costs $14,990 in manual form and $16,853 for the automatic. These prices include air conditioning, but not ‘on-road’ costs. There’s an optional Safety Pack available that provides a front passenger airbag, anti-lock brakes and electronic brake distribution for $1,590. To give the Accent a livelier driving feel and increase power and torque (slightly), the
engine capacity has been enlarged from 1.5 litres to 1.6 litres. At the same time, the gear
ratios in both manual and automatic versions have been re-jigged and wheel size has gone
from 13 inch to 14 inch. The power steering assistance has been increased at parking speeds and decreased at highway speeds, and the rear suspension has heavier duty lateral links. A range of measures designed to reduce noise, vibration and harshness have been introduced to improve the Accent’s general driving feel. Equipment upgrades include the addition of a tachometer, a change to an electrically driven speedo and odometer, three adjustable rear seat head restraints (but still only a lap belt in the centre) and separate retractable cupholders in the dash. Interior trim fabrics have also been upgraded.

Download:HYUNDAI ACCENT 1.6 litre 3-door hatch

 Remove backing plate from mirror housing.Open driver side door. Lower window.Remove triangular plastic cover on upper right-hand corner of door. Remove plastic cover on door handle. Remove screw behind plastic cover. Disengage and remove door handle. Warranty does not cover damage to the vehicle or mirror housing due to improper installation. Muth Mirror Systems, LLC (MMS) assumes no responsibility with regard to the accuracy of this information. MMS assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information. Proper installation is the responsibility of the installer. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Remove screws from behind armrest. Remove push-pin from door panel between A-pillar and tweeter. Lift door panel and pull out partially. Unsnap all wiring connections and remove door panel. Unscrew the (3) bolts securing the mirror housing to the door and remove mirror housing.

Download: 2003-08 Toyota 4Runner Signal Mirror Installation Manual

Después, mantenga este manual en su vehículo para que pueda referirse a ella en cualquier momento. Garantías varias proteger su vehículo nuevo. Lea el folleto de garantía a fondo para entender las coberturas y son conscientes de sus derechos y responsabilidades. El mantenimiento de su vehículo de acuerdo a los horarios indicados en este manual ayuda a mantener su forma de conducir sin problemas, mientras que preserva su inversión. Cuando su vehículo necesita mantenimiento, tener en cuenta que el personal de su distribuidor está especialmente capacitado en el mantenimiento de los sistemas únicos de su vehículo. Su distribuidor se dedica a su satisfacción y estará encantado de responder a las preguntas y preocupaciones. Al leer este manual, usted encontrará la información que es precedida por un símbolo. Esta información está destinada a ayudar a evitar daños a su vehículo u otros bienes o el medio ambiente.

Descarga: Manual de 2007 Propietario Honda Fit

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Introducing a multi-stage, automotive insulation and sound damping system to give older Alfa Romero cars the “quiet riding comfort” found in today’s new cars. AcoustiSHIELD kits are designed on current “state-of-the-art” auto acoustic technology, to insulate and control the noise, vibration and heat in the passenger cabin. Kits are pre-cut and come with easy-to-follow installation instructions- —-everything you need to do the job right.

Download: 1985-93 Alfa Romeo Spider Service manual Catalog

Proper use of an Instant Detailer

Ok, you’ve reached that point where your anal about car care. You’ve invested time and money on proper car care products. You’ve spent a day or two, here and there, getting your car looking its best, you’ve polished, and waxed or sealed, now how do you keep it looking like that throughout the week, until your next wash? Not long ago, instant detailers (id’s) came along. Mothers, and Meguiars were two of the first car care companies to introduce it, under names Showtime and Quick Detailer, respectively. These are both good products when used for light cleaning of the vehicles surface. You simply spray on the surface, and wipe clean with a soft cloth…..it can’t be that easy, or can it?

It can be! But with so many instant detailers out there, which one should you choose? You could choose from Meguiars, Mothers, Black Magic, Zymol, Eagle One, etc. These all have their place, somewhere in car care. I guess if I had to pick one of the above, I would go with either Eagle Ones, or Mothers version. They are both very good, and reliable. There are also a few products available online which in my opinion are exceptional products. Clearkote, Poorboys, Adam’s (brand new), are a few.

Lets get to basics with instant detailers, what can and can’t they do?
First off I want to make clear, that these products are not intended to replace normal washing routines. There simply designed to remove light grade contaminants from the vehicles surface, i.e. dust, fingerprints, and an occasional visit from a seagull, when you’re in a pinch (no pun intended). You should always carry at least a 4oz bottle of ID when you’re on the road for these types of emergencies.
ID’s are really great for maintaining that just washed/waxed look. Some can be used on windows (Clearkote Quikshine is even recommended for glass, matter of fact, the only thing you cant use it on is your tires). Some are difficult to get off if over sprayed on windows, so read directions on the back label.

There very easy to use, your basically going to use the same technique you do while drying your car. Spray a light mist on the surface (in shade preferably), wipe with microfiber polishing towel in the same direction as you remove your polishing and wax/sealant products (This will remove contaminants). Turn towel over, and buff to finish (This will create the shine).

Most products will have either a polymer, carnauba, or silicone content which will deter further dirt and or dust from accumulating. Truly a time saver and can really extend the life of sealant or wax currently protecting your car. Most “speed details” only cost from about $.30 to $.75 per job, so a real affordable alternative to the bucket and sponge! Just keep in mind, this is a between washes, product, not intended to replace the bucket and sheepskin wash mitt!

I posted last week that I was doing my valve cover gasket and somebody wanted instructions so here they are.

First take off your engine cover and coilpack. The coilpacks are held in by a 5mm allen bolt (not sure if they are bolted down on newer motors) Now located the 5 10mm nuts that will need to be removed as well as the grounding wire. Remove these bolts using an untightening pattern similar to that of a lug bolts. Also unclip the 2 clips holding on the timing belt cover (located at the very front of the motor)



Next pull off the valve cover as well as the gasket making sure not to get any dirt in the motor.


After that clean off the mating surfaces on the head and the valve cover with a clean rag. Dont forget the center 4 holes for the spark plugs as well. After this apply a very light layer of gasket sealer/rtv along both the front and back of the motor especially in the corners and the "v" part of the head. Also apply to the matching side of the valve cover. (In the pic I only have the corners done but do all the way across the front and back of the motor.)


Finally put the gasket and valve cover on and torque the bolts down to 7ft/lbs, using a tightening pattern similar to that of lug bolts.

Mitsubishi Pajero / Montero 2000 Workshop Manual./ workshop manual mitsubishi pajero pdf, workshop manual mitsubishi pajero ebook … 2000 Mitsubishi Motors Corporation Added SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS Items … Workshop Manual MONTERO SPORT. ADVERTENCIASSOBRELOSTRABAJOS DESERVICIO EN LOS. 2000 2001 2002 MITSUBISHI MONTERO SPORT / PAJERO SPORT SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD This PDF ebook service / repair manual covers every service and repair.


Download: Mitsubishi Pajero / Montero 2000 Workshop Manual

OK I have been getting all sorts of questions on my set-up from installation to parts to how it runs so I am making this thread to refer people too. I am not responsibale for anything bad that happens, so do at ur own risk and all that good stuff

Disclaimer #s I SUCK AT SPELLING AND DONT PROOFREAD
Parts
gt28rs turbo
gt28rs -> v-band adapter
3" test pipe
3" downpipe
upgraded exhaust
exhaust manifold with t25 flange
v-band
exhaust manifold gasket
copper sheet (make your own gaskets, all atps surfaces are not flat)
misc hardware

2 90 degree silicon bends
vr6/2.75" maf housing
misc clamps
3" filter
3" metal pipe
turbo to f hose adapter

440cc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
adjustable fpr
fp gauge

These fittings

oil filter housing to 4an adapter
2 atp cnc banjo bolts and fittings
atp cnc machined oil pan adapter
gasket material (dont use atps)
misc clamps

manual boost controller,
10 of silicone tubing
a couple tee connectors
dv
fmic

clutch (capable of 400+ tq
programming
vag-com
wideband a/f (highly recommended but not necessary)
misc hardware/gaskets, etc


Installation
*Give yourself at least 4 days of downtime. My car took 4 days 18hrs a day to get installed and running, but i didnt buy the atp kit.
**This is not plug and play, and keep in mind you WILL be under the hood every weekend getting things right again.
-First remove old turbo and all related parts, oil/coolant lines, intake pipes, cat, etc
-install new oil lines, the feed is self explanatory 4an hose. The return (10an) needs to have no restriction otherwise your $1g turbo is done, and its not rebuildable! Make you own gasket for both cnc flanges, on the pan and turbo. The bolts for the pan are a major pita to tighten, I had to bend a wrench


-install the coolant lines. both are 6an and will attach to the turbo via banjo fittings. For the feed, uses the barb fitting and clamp it around a rubber hose which goes to the stock location.
For the coolant return there is a pipe sticking out of the block, clamp the ss hose around this pipe
-Install exhaust manifold. I had a custom one so i had to shave off some of the head, but that shouldnt be necessary with most manifolds. install gasket and wastegate blockoff flange.
-clock turbo, to that comp housing is turned properly, This is done by very carefully looseing the nuts on the comp housing and turning. You will need to extend and twist the wastegate arm. Some people need to make a new wastegate actuator bracket but that wasnt necessary for me. Also adjust the wastegate so that it has 7-8 lbs of preload.
-Bolt turbo to exhaust manifold. Make sure you use a gasket with a fire ring. Tighten all hardware.
-Trace v-band adapter and make gaskets for the both the v-band and the 5 bolt discharge out of copper. Then bolt this up, along with the downpipe.
-Take out the maf element from the stock housing. Dremel the vr6 hosuing so that the stock element fits in. Silicone it in. Extend maf wires about 1 ft.
-Cut a 1" hole in the silicone elbow for the bypass valve return.
-find a way to connect the turbo outlet to the f-hose. I initially used a second f hose cut in half, as well as a 2" pipe with flared ends. now i have custom intercooler pipes.
-Connect the silicone 90 degree bendwith hole clamped to the maf (make sure direction is correct, then 2nd 90 degree bend, then 3" pipe, then air filter which should sit behind the passenger foglight.
-Connect maf wires and bypass valve return
-connect wastegate vac line, and boost controller.
-disconnect the n75 valve vac lines, but leave it plugged in mechanically.
-cut pcv pipe

and find a rubber bend so that the oil doesnt drip onto the downpipe or manifold
-install programming
-install injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pressure gauge. Make sure to uses fuel injection clamps on the gauge install and also make sure its on the fuel feed hose not return.
-install fuel pump, in order to make the walbro mustang pump work in the audi, you will need a piece of rubber hose to keep it tight in the pump holding contraption. Look for john baass install on audiworld.

-clean up tools, get blood off hands, drink beer,
-pull fuel pump fuse and crank over to get oil into the turbo
-install fuel pump fuse andstart up car. It will idle like ****, maybe no idle at all but it will eventually adjust. check for any leaks of anything, and fix where necessary.
*It will smoke for while
- Let it warm up and take it out for a test drive keeping a careful eye on the boost gauge (i pinned my gauge the first time due to improper wastegate preload.

Tuning

Begin by hooking up the vag-com, and start up the car remember to let the fuel pump prime before turning over. The vag is just to make sure you can see whats going on if there is any issues. It will probably idle like crap or not idle at all, but should smooth out after 15 min of driving. In my case it didnt and I spent the next 2 months playing around with maf sizes, fuel pressures, and injectors and not idle at all. I had to keep my foot on the gas the whole time which meant left foot on the clutch and right hand on the ebrake when i had to stop.

Once you get your idle set, more than likely your fuel trims have adjusted. Get out the vag-com and monitor knock sensor voltages, timing correction, o2 sensor values and any codes you may come across. Make adjustments where necessary. Remember if you start pulling alot of timing like over 9 degrees or so, you need to do something about it otherwise the motor will not last long. Also listen for knock (marbles in a tin can) I have never heard it personally but i very rarely listen to my radio now, Im always listening for knock just incase.

Check your codes and do logs very often to keep track of whats going on. fuel trims within 20% are in spec and will not throw a cel, but if possible try to keep them within -+10%. Also remeber -10% is rich, +10% is lean. A bad o2 sensor will cause the fuel trims to either not adapt, or adapt incorrectly causing clouds of black smoke, stained bumper, lots of backfires terrible gas mileage, and other problems...dont ask me how i know. Lets say once you start shooting out fire, ppl tailgaiting will no longer be a problem

Next build a pressure tester. You will be springing boost leaks like crazy...at least i am. The consists of a 2" pvc cap with a bike tire valve epoxied to it. You clamp it around the turbo outlet tube, inflate to 15psi or so and spray all vac lines and charge pipes with soapy water and check for bubbling. You may be surprised what you will find.

Some other little tricks to help with the many strange issues that come up are moving the location of your maf housing. Idealy you want at least 6" of straight tubing on each side of the maf but that not gonna happen with this set-up. Also make sure the bypass valve plumback is not entering to close to the maf otherwise it will disrupt flow, and cause bad readings and crappy idle. Another important maf thing to keep in mind is when ppl say 3" maf they are refering to 3" od which is really closer to a 2.75" id which is what is important..again dont ask how i know.

Driving Impressions
You most likely will not get in the car the first time and drive it and be shocked like most other set-ups, it runs like complete **** for a while, you tune it and gradually get it better and better, until finally you either put up a good time at the track or whoop up on some sti or corvette. Then you realize what you have done, and the grin will not be wiped off your face until the next time you break down which honestly, probably wont take long. (always, always carry extra tools, duct tape, and the sleeping bag that comes in the audi survival package, na u shouldnt need the sleeping bag but the other stuff is very important)

The car is really alotta fun, at 15psi the thing begins to haul very very quickly and by 20psi its feel unstoppable. Power comes on very smooth from a roll and is much more drivable in the corners than a chipped ko3 or ko4 because there is not a sudden torque spike. Once spooled it feels like it will pull forever. Its pulls on the highway like nothing else and you really really hafta watch your speed. Maybe I should add a valentine 1 to the list of materials needed. If properly tuned it should run mid 12s with an experienced driver (not me), so thats faster in a straight line than many ferrraris, porsches etc.

I know a guy who runs 34psi on this turbo on stock internals "when i need a thrill" He says" image driving down the highway at 30mph, punching it and getting sideways with awd from a 30mph roll." I have never done this in my car but you really do hafta be careful on wet or dusty roads because once boost begins it will occasionally break loose and get a little sideways in 1st or 2nd gear. I also have aproblem with overrevving when stuff like this happens. I have pinned my tach on several occasions. Aparently the atp rev limiter only works under load.


Overall this turbo kit will cause alot of blood sweat money (in my case credit cards, which are finally being paid off), rediculous amounts of time everyweekend, and many times stranded on the side of the road...i havent had to get towed yet but if you dont know your way around the car and how to diagnose stuff add money to the mod fund for tow trucks fees cause stuff will break! As long as you do all the work and everything you will learn alot of this as you go along, but DO YOUR RESEARCH first. What I have listed in this post is not everything you need to know, but just some of the important stuff that i remember off the top of my head.


Oh yea, if you get frustrated, put the keys down, drink a beer go to sleep and try again in the morning, you will be thinking much clearer

Heres a couple vids hopefully for inspiration.
Winter 05: ko4 -> gt28rs
Gt28rs at 16psi with many leaks