Following Manual

I posted last week that I was doing my valve cover gasket and somebody wanted instructions so here they are.

First take off your engine cover and coilpack. The coilpacks are held in by a 5mm allen bolt (not sure if they are bolted down on newer motors) Now located the 5 10mm nuts that will need to be removed as well as the grounding wire. Remove these bolts using an untightening pattern similar to that of a lug bolts. Also unclip the 2 clips holding on the timing belt cover (located at the very front of the motor)



Next pull off the valve cover as well as the gasket making sure not to get any dirt in the motor.


After that clean off the mating surfaces on the head and the valve cover with a clean rag. Dont forget the center 4 holes for the spark plugs as well. After this apply a very light layer of gasket sealer/rtv along both the front and back of the motor especially in the corners and the "v" part of the head. Also apply to the matching side of the valve cover. (In the pic I only have the corners done but do all the way across the front and back of the motor.)


Finally put the gasket and valve cover on and torque the bolts down to 7ft/lbs, using a tightening pattern similar to that of lug bolts.

HOW TO : change a BPV on a 1997 - with pics.

I changed my BPV / DV (bypass valve / diverter valve) today (710N), so I snapped some pics and thought Id post in case anyone was interested.

I have a 1997, so the BPV is NOT in the same spot as most A4s. Its located higher up, and you really cant get to it from below. So, there is no need to jack up the car for this.

Tools needed:
1. Flathead and Phillips screwdriver.
2. Size 30 Torx socket attachment (for the headlight removal).
3. Small Hands.

Optional:
- Extra Vacuum hose. Size 3.5mm or 5/32".
- Little clamps for vac hose that you replace (can get at www.ecstuning.com). Or just use zip ties.


STEP 1: Remove airbox cover pieces.

Just pop off the plastic covers over the air box (you DO NOT have to remove the airbox, just the covers). The cover pops off, and the flex snorkel too. The little snorkel piece in the front has two screws holding it in.


STEP 2: Remove Headlight.

Theres three torx screws holding in the headlight. First pop out the sidemarker (this if for those with 2-piece). Then youll see the side screw. The other two are right on top of the headlight.



You can then pull out the light, and can easily pop off the wiring connector (just push the little silver clip down, and the plug comes out) then you can completely remove the headlight housing.

Heres what you see when you look in:



STEP 3: Loosen clamps to move the hose from the air box out of the way.



Just loosen the two clamps (number 1 and 2 in the pic) enough to you can move that big flex hose enough to get better access to the BPV clamps. Number 3 is optional if you think it will give you better access. That is the connector to the N75 valve. Theres a silver clip you can push in and pop off that connector. Just be careful with it.

Heres the hoses removed:




STEP 4: Get to the BPV!

Now when you hold that big hose out of the way, you should able to get a decent view of the BPV (which is behind the fan).



Theres two flathead screw clamps holding the BPV on to each hose attached to it. One of them you cannot get to yet. The first is a bit tricky. I put one arm in through the headlight hole to hold the BPV and clamp at an angle where I could get the screwdriver on it from above. Its a bit frustrating but very do-able. After you loosen it enough, pull that end of the BPV out of that hose. The other end (towards the IC piping) of the BPV is still attached. You should now be able to weasel your way over to that clamp to loosen.

Now the BPV is basically free. The only thing still attached should be the vacuum hose going to the manifold.



Remove that vac hose. If the hose is old/brittle then you should replace it now. The hose size is 5/32 inches (available at Autozone), its also the same as the 3.5mm ID hose.

Now hook up your new BPV to the vac hose, and put it all back together and check for leaks via your boost gauge. If you dont have a boost gauge, stop modding your car and get one before you bother modding!




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Disclaimer - I am not repsonsable for any damages that may occur from this procedure. I am simply showing you what worked for me because the ross-tech web site did NOT work for me and didnt work a ton of other people. So here it goes...

Have you received a new remote that you want to program to your car but find out that THIS (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...-matching.html) didnt help you out much?


Remote Matching

For this procedure, you must have
1) VAG COM
2) A laser cut key (just one is "needed")
3) Up to 4 compatable remotes to program


Procedure for matching remote controls to most VW & Audi vehicles:

Under "Select Control Module"

"Select"

"46 - Cent. Conv." or "35 - Cent. Locking" (depending on year and make/model)

"Adaptation - 10"

First enter channel "00" as this will set all settings back to factory.

Enter channel "01" (Again "21 depending on make/model).

"Read"

This is supposed to display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value". But a lot of people actually get 0. Like I did...

According to ross-tech, this is what you must do next which is the part that messes everyone up - "Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4 (including any existing keys) in New Value." Do not do that. Instead, for your first remote just put in a one.

"Test"

Verify that the number in "Test Value" is the one you entered.

Now this is another place that ross-tech tells you to do something that doesnt work... They tell you to hit the "Save" button, but what are you saving? Absolutly nothing!! Notice up at the top it should say something along the lines of "Key Adaptation." If it says this, you have 15 seconds to push the unlock button on your remote (hold for two seconds) or until it says "Key learned." NOW is where you hit save.

"Save"

It should now ask if you are sure you want to save. Of course you do.

The procedure also says right about now that the car will give you some kind of sign that the remote was learned such as a (lights flash, horn beep, etc.) but as long as the VAGCOM said "learned" it will be fine.

But for remote number two pretty much follow the same above for number one. Now you actually have to put in 2 for test value, 3 in test value for the third and 4 for the fourth. I hope this makes scence. It seems like it will overwrite the last remote but it does not...

Also, here is some helpful info for your programming... In order to find if your remote works with your car and you can use it, go to "Measuring Block" 006 - Go! and look at field 2... There should be four bits in this field (all 0000)... Hit a button on your remote, one of the bits should now change to a 1 depending on the button you hit! I dont know what measuring block it will be for the other cars... This procedure works 100% on my 2000 Audi TT and 2001 Audi A4. Will be testing others soon!!

I just finished hardwiring my V1, using the sunroof method, and Im all smiles!!! It took me about 2 hours to figure out what was what, and then when I was finished, it was all worth it. I will try to get some pictures taken, I really didnt even think about it till I was done.

Keep in mind, this was on a B6, so I dont know if its that easy for a B5 or B7, but it might be the same. I didnt want to run a ground wire all the way throught the A-pillar, and down to the fuse box. There are 2 bolts that you can ground to less than 6 inches from where the 12v lead is. The only problem is that they are underneath the headliner, and a #*@&! to get too, unless you are using a small @ss wrench. It took me a while to get the bolt loose, to get the negative ground on there.

I mounted the V1 above the rearview mirror, to the right side.

I really need pictures on here! Sorry, but I had to rant, very happy with it!

Ok, so here are some pictures!!!


I started by removing the plastic coverings to the lights, which allow you to see two phillips head screws. Remove these, and the whole piece will drop out of the headliner with a little pull.


This picture shows where the 12V lead is plugged into... This is a switched lead, which turns on and off with the cars ignition, perfect for a radar detector.


A close up of the 12V lead...


This is where I put the negative ground to... Its a realy pain in the @ss to get too, but if you use a small wrench, you can get the bolt loose, and put your lead between the bolt and the frame of the car... I would not reccomend removing the bolt completly, because it might be that much harder to get it back on... If you dont use this location for a ground, you may find yourself trying to route a negative ground wire all the way down to your fuse box, and who really wants to do that?


A close up of the pain in the @ss bolt, A.K.A. "Negative Ground"


The finished product!!! Just tuck all of your loose wires into the headliner somewhere. I would reccomend that you zip tie the extra cabling, so that if you have to open up the compartment again, you dont have a bunch of cables drop down. All in all, you are left with a clean looking radar mount position, about 4 inches of coord thats visible, and the radar unit is just below the factory tint level, which does not inhibit the radar detectors performance. Very happy with it!