Following Manual

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download here

I posted last week that I was doing my valve cover gasket and somebody wanted instructions so here they are.

First take off your engine cover and coilpack. The coilpacks are held in by a 5mm allen bolt (not sure if they are bolted down on newer motors) Now located the 5 10mm nuts that will need to be removed as well as the grounding wire. Remove these bolts using an untightening pattern similar to that of a lug bolts. Also unclip the 2 clips holding on the timing belt cover (located at the very front of the motor)



Next pull off the valve cover as well as the gasket making sure not to get any dirt in the motor.


After that clean off the mating surfaces on the head and the valve cover with a clean rag. Dont forget the center 4 holes for the spark plugs as well. After this apply a very light layer of gasket sealer/rtv along both the front and back of the motor especially in the corners and the "v" part of the head. Also apply to the matching side of the valve cover. (In the pic I only have the corners done but do all the way across the front and back of the motor.)


Finally put the gasket and valve cover on and torque the bolts down to 7ft/lbs, using a tightening pattern similar to that of lug bolts.

OK I have been getting all sorts of questions on my set-up from installation to parts to how it runs so I am making this thread to refer people too. I am not responsibale for anything bad that happens, so do at ur own risk and all that good stuff

Disclaimer #s I SUCK AT SPELLING AND DONT PROOFREAD
Parts
gt28rs turbo
gt28rs -> v-band adapter
3" test pipe
3" downpipe
upgraded exhaust
exhaust manifold with t25 flange
v-band
exhaust manifold gasket
copper sheet (make your own gaskets, all atps surfaces are not flat)
misc hardware

2 90 degree silicon bends
vr6/2.75" maf housing
misc clamps
3" filter
3" metal pipe
turbo to f hose adapter

440cc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
adjustable fpr
fp gauge

These fittings

oil filter housing to 4an adapter
2 atp cnc banjo bolts and fittings
atp cnc machined oil pan adapter
gasket material (dont use atps)
misc clamps

manual boost controller,
10 of silicone tubing
a couple tee connectors
dv
fmic

clutch (capable of 400+ tq
programming
vag-com
wideband a/f (highly recommended but not necessary)
misc hardware/gaskets, etc


Installation
*Give yourself at least 4 days of downtime. My car took 4 days 18hrs a day to get installed and running, but i didnt buy the atp kit.
**This is not plug and play, and keep in mind you WILL be under the hood every weekend getting things right again.
-First remove old turbo and all related parts, oil/coolant lines, intake pipes, cat, etc
-install new oil lines, the feed is self explanatory 4an hose. The return (10an) needs to have no restriction otherwise your $1g turbo is done, and its not rebuildable! Make you own gasket for both cnc flanges, on the pan and turbo. The bolts for the pan are a major pita to tighten, I had to bend a wrench


-install the coolant lines. both are 6an and will attach to the turbo via banjo fittings. For the feed, uses the barb fitting and clamp it around a rubber hose which goes to the stock location.
For the coolant return there is a pipe sticking out of the block, clamp the ss hose around this pipe
-Install exhaust manifold. I had a custom one so i had to shave off some of the head, but that shouldnt be necessary with most manifolds. install gasket and wastegate blockoff flange.
-clock turbo, to that comp housing is turned properly, This is done by very carefully looseing the nuts on the comp housing and turning. You will need to extend and twist the wastegate arm. Some people need to make a new wastegate actuator bracket but that wasnt necessary for me. Also adjust the wastegate so that it has 7-8 lbs of preload.
-Bolt turbo to exhaust manifold. Make sure you use a gasket with a fire ring. Tighten all hardware.
-Trace v-band adapter and make gaskets for the both the v-band and the 5 bolt discharge out of copper. Then bolt this up, along with the downpipe.
-Take out the maf element from the stock housing. Dremel the vr6 hosuing so that the stock element fits in. Silicone it in. Extend maf wires about 1 ft.
-Cut a 1" hole in the silicone elbow for the bypass valve return.
-find a way to connect the turbo outlet to the f-hose. I initially used a second f hose cut in half, as well as a 2" pipe with flared ends. now i have custom intercooler pipes.
-Connect the silicone 90 degree bendwith hole clamped to the maf (make sure direction is correct, then 2nd 90 degree bend, then 3" pipe, then air filter which should sit behind the passenger foglight.
-Connect maf wires and bypass valve return
-connect wastegate vac line, and boost controller.
-disconnect the n75 valve vac lines, but leave it plugged in mechanically.
-cut pcv pipe

and find a rubber bend so that the oil doesnt drip onto the downpipe or manifold
-install programming
-install injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pressure gauge. Make sure to uses fuel injection clamps on the gauge install and also make sure its on the fuel feed hose not return.
-install fuel pump, in order to make the walbro mustang pump work in the audi, you will need a piece of rubber hose to keep it tight in the pump holding contraption. Look for john baass install on audiworld.

-clean up tools, get blood off hands, drink beer,
-pull fuel pump fuse and crank over to get oil into the turbo
-install fuel pump fuse andstart up car. It will idle like ****, maybe no idle at all but it will eventually adjust. check for any leaks of anything, and fix where necessary.
*It will smoke for while
- Let it warm up and take it out for a test drive keeping a careful eye on the boost gauge (i pinned my gauge the first time due to improper wastegate preload.

Tuning

Begin by hooking up the vag-com, and start up the car remember to let the fuel pump prime before turning over. The vag is just to make sure you can see whats going on if there is any issues. It will probably idle like crap or not idle at all, but should smooth out after 15 min of driving. In my case it didnt and I spent the next 2 months playing around with maf sizes, fuel pressures, and injectors and not idle at all. I had to keep my foot on the gas the whole time which meant left foot on the clutch and right hand on the ebrake when i had to stop.

Once you get your idle set, more than likely your fuel trims have adjusted. Get out the vag-com and monitor knock sensor voltages, timing correction, o2 sensor values and any codes you may come across. Make adjustments where necessary. Remember if you start pulling alot of timing like over 9 degrees or so, you need to do something about it otherwise the motor will not last long. Also listen for knock (marbles in a tin can) I have never heard it personally but i very rarely listen to my radio now, Im always listening for knock just incase.

Check your codes and do logs very often to keep track of whats going on. fuel trims within 20% are in spec and will not throw a cel, but if possible try to keep them within -+10%. Also remeber -10% is rich, +10% is lean. A bad o2 sensor will cause the fuel trims to either not adapt, or adapt incorrectly causing clouds of black smoke, stained bumper, lots of backfires terrible gas mileage, and other problems...dont ask me how i know. Lets say once you start shooting out fire, ppl tailgaiting will no longer be a problem

Next build a pressure tester. You will be springing boost leaks like crazy...at least i am. The consists of a 2" pvc cap with a bike tire valve epoxied to it. You clamp it around the turbo outlet tube, inflate to 15psi or so and spray all vac lines and charge pipes with soapy water and check for bubbling. You may be surprised what you will find.

Some other little tricks to help with the many strange issues that come up are moving the location of your maf housing. Idealy you want at least 6" of straight tubing on each side of the maf but that not gonna happen with this set-up. Also make sure the bypass valve plumback is not entering to close to the maf otherwise it will disrupt flow, and cause bad readings and crappy idle. Another important maf thing to keep in mind is when ppl say 3" maf they are refering to 3" od which is really closer to a 2.75" id which is what is important..again dont ask how i know.

Driving Impressions
You most likely will not get in the car the first time and drive it and be shocked like most other set-ups, it runs like complete **** for a while, you tune it and gradually get it better and better, until finally you either put up a good time at the track or whoop up on some sti or corvette. Then you realize what you have done, and the grin will not be wiped off your face until the next time you break down which honestly, probably wont take long. (always, always carry extra tools, duct tape, and the sleeping bag that comes in the audi survival package, na u shouldnt need the sleeping bag but the other stuff is very important)

The car is really alotta fun, at 15psi the thing begins to haul very very quickly and by 20psi its feel unstoppable. Power comes on very smooth from a roll and is much more drivable in the corners than a chipped ko3 or ko4 because there is not a sudden torque spike. Once spooled it feels like it will pull forever. Its pulls on the highway like nothing else and you really really hafta watch your speed. Maybe I should add a valentine 1 to the list of materials needed. If properly tuned it should run mid 12s with an experienced driver (not me), so thats faster in a straight line than many ferrraris, porsches etc.

I know a guy who runs 34psi on this turbo on stock internals "when i need a thrill" He says" image driving down the highway at 30mph, punching it and getting sideways with awd from a 30mph roll." I have never done this in my car but you really do hafta be careful on wet or dusty roads because once boost begins it will occasionally break loose and get a little sideways in 1st or 2nd gear. I also have aproblem with overrevving when stuff like this happens. I have pinned my tach on several occasions. Aparently the atp rev limiter only works under load.


Overall this turbo kit will cause alot of blood sweat money (in my case credit cards, which are finally being paid off), rediculous amounts of time everyweekend, and many times stranded on the side of the road...i havent had to get towed yet but if you dont know your way around the car and how to diagnose stuff add money to the mod fund for tow trucks fees cause stuff will break! As long as you do all the work and everything you will learn alot of this as you go along, but DO YOUR RESEARCH first. What I have listed in this post is not everything you need to know, but just some of the important stuff that i remember off the top of my head.


Oh yea, if you get frustrated, put the keys down, drink a beer go to sleep and try again in the morning, you will be thinking much clearer

Heres a couple vids hopefully for inspiration.
Winter 05: ko4 -> gt28rs
Gt28rs at 16psi with many leaks

HOW TO : change a BPV on a 1997 - with pics.

I changed my BPV / DV (bypass valve / diverter valve) today (710N), so I snapped some pics and thought Id post in case anyone was interested.

I have a 1997, so the BPV is NOT in the same spot as most A4s. Its located higher up, and you really cant get to it from below. So, there is no need to jack up the car for this.

Tools needed:
1. Flathead and Phillips screwdriver.
2. Size 30 Torx socket attachment (for the headlight removal).
3. Small Hands.

Optional:
- Extra Vacuum hose. Size 3.5mm or 5/32".
- Little clamps for vac hose that you replace (can get at www.ecstuning.com). Or just use zip ties.


STEP 1: Remove airbox cover pieces.

Just pop off the plastic covers over the air box (you DO NOT have to remove the airbox, just the covers). The cover pops off, and the flex snorkel too. The little snorkel piece in the front has two screws holding it in.


STEP 2: Remove Headlight.

Theres three torx screws holding in the headlight. First pop out the sidemarker (this if for those with 2-piece). Then youll see the side screw. The other two are right on top of the headlight.



You can then pull out the light, and can easily pop off the wiring connector (just push the little silver clip down, and the plug comes out) then you can completely remove the headlight housing.

Heres what you see when you look in:



STEP 3: Loosen clamps to move the hose from the air box out of the way.



Just loosen the two clamps (number 1 and 2 in the pic) enough to you can move that big flex hose enough to get better access to the BPV clamps. Number 3 is optional if you think it will give you better access. That is the connector to the N75 valve. Theres a silver clip you can push in and pop off that connector. Just be careful with it.

Heres the hoses removed:




STEP 4: Get to the BPV!

Now when you hold that big hose out of the way, you should able to get a decent view of the BPV (which is behind the fan).



Theres two flathead screw clamps holding the BPV on to each hose attached to it. One of them you cannot get to yet. The first is a bit tricky. I put one arm in through the headlight hole to hold the BPV and clamp at an angle where I could get the screwdriver on it from above. Its a bit frustrating but very do-able. After you loosen it enough, pull that end of the BPV out of that hose. The other end (towards the IC piping) of the BPV is still attached. You should now be able to weasel your way over to that clamp to loosen.

Now the BPV is basically free. The only thing still attached should be the vacuum hose going to the manifold.



Remove that vac hose. If the hose is old/brittle then you should replace it now. The hose size is 5/32 inches (available at Autozone), its also the same as the 3.5mm ID hose.

Now hook up your new BPV to the vac hose, and put it all back together and check for leaks via your boost gauge. If you dont have a boost gauge, stop modding your car and get one before you bother modding!




search terms: changing BPV bypass valve DV diverter valve 710N 97 how to change BPV write-up install installing installation instructions puting in new BPV

Disclaimer - I am not repsonsable for any damages that may occur from this procedure. I am simply showing you what worked for me because the ross-tech web site did NOT work for me and didnt work a ton of other people. So here it goes...

Have you received a new remote that you want to program to your car but find out that THIS (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...-matching.html) didnt help you out much?


Remote Matching

For this procedure, you must have
1) VAG COM
2) A laser cut key (just one is "needed")
3) Up to 4 compatable remotes to program


Procedure for matching remote controls to most VW & Audi vehicles:

Under "Select Control Module"

"Select"

"46 - Cent. Conv." or "35 - Cent. Locking" (depending on year and make/model)

"Adaptation - 10"

First enter channel "00" as this will set all settings back to factory.

Enter channel "01" (Again "21 depending on make/model).

"Read"

This is supposed to display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value". But a lot of people actually get 0. Like I did...

According to ross-tech, this is what you must do next which is the part that messes everyone up - "Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4 (including any existing keys) in New Value." Do not do that. Instead, for your first remote just put in a one.

"Test"

Verify that the number in "Test Value" is the one you entered.

Now this is another place that ross-tech tells you to do something that doesnt work... They tell you to hit the "Save" button, but what are you saving? Absolutly nothing!! Notice up at the top it should say something along the lines of "Key Adaptation." If it says this, you have 15 seconds to push the unlock button on your remote (hold for two seconds) or until it says "Key learned." NOW is where you hit save.

"Save"

It should now ask if you are sure you want to save. Of course you do.

The procedure also says right about now that the car will give you some kind of sign that the remote was learned such as a (lights flash, horn beep, etc.) but as long as the VAGCOM said "learned" it will be fine.

But for remote number two pretty much follow the same above for number one. Now you actually have to put in 2 for test value, 3 in test value for the third and 4 for the fourth. I hope this makes scence. It seems like it will overwrite the last remote but it does not...

Also, here is some helpful info for your programming... In order to find if your remote works with your car and you can use it, go to "Measuring Block" 006 - Go! and look at field 2... There should be four bits in this field (all 0000)... Hit a button on your remote, one of the bits should now change to a 1 depending on the button you hit! I dont know what measuring block it will be for the other cars... This procedure works 100% on my 2000 Audi TT and 2001 Audi A4. Will be testing others soon!!

I just finished hardwiring my V1, using the sunroof method, and Im all smiles!!! It took me about 2 hours to figure out what was what, and then when I was finished, it was all worth it. I will try to get some pictures taken, I really didnt even think about it till I was done.

Keep in mind, this was on a B6, so I dont know if its that easy for a B5 or B7, but it might be the same. I didnt want to run a ground wire all the way throught the A-pillar, and down to the fuse box. There are 2 bolts that you can ground to less than 6 inches from where the 12v lead is. The only problem is that they are underneath the headliner, and a #*@&! to get too, unless you are using a small @ss wrench. It took me a while to get the bolt loose, to get the negative ground on there.

I mounted the V1 above the rearview mirror, to the right side.

I really need pictures on here! Sorry, but I had to rant, very happy with it!

Ok, so here are some pictures!!!


I started by removing the plastic coverings to the lights, which allow you to see two phillips head screws. Remove these, and the whole piece will drop out of the headliner with a little pull.


This picture shows where the 12V lead is plugged into... This is a switched lead, which turns on and off with the cars ignition, perfect for a radar detector.


A close up of the 12V lead...


This is where I put the negative ground to... Its a realy pain in the @ss to get too, but if you use a small wrench, you can get the bolt loose, and put your lead between the bolt and the frame of the car... I would not reccomend removing the bolt completly, because it might be that much harder to get it back on... If you dont use this location for a ground, you may find yourself trying to route a negative ground wire all the way down to your fuse box, and who really wants to do that?


A close up of the pain in the @ss bolt, A.K.A. "Negative Ground"


The finished product!!! Just tuck all of your loose wires into the headliner somewhere. I would reccomend that you zip tie the extra cabling, so that if you have to open up the compartment again, you dont have a bunch of cables drop down. All in all, you are left with a clean looking radar mount position, about 4 inches of coord thats visible, and the radar unit is just below the factory tint level, which does not inhibit the radar detectors performance. Very happy with it!

2005 Audi All-new A4 Maintenance Schedule.This Maintenance Service Circular AMS-05-26 dated October 20, 2005 supercedes Maintenance Service Circular AMS-05-02 dated February 3, 2005 containing Perfect Delivery Inspection Procedure, Inventory Maintenance Checklist, Suggested Repair Times and Scheduled Maintenance Intervals for the All-new 2005 Audi A4 Maintenance Schedule (USA Vehicles Only)

Note: Perfect Delivery Inspection and Inventory Maintenance Checklist suggested maintenance times are applicable to United States only. Updated information: Added 30 Day Inventory Maintenance Checklist. For states that require a manufacturer’s statement regarding the delivery inspection procedure, the Perfect Delivery Inspection section of this Circular may be utilized for that purpose. Universal Remote Controls . Marketing Services .  here 2005 Audi All-new A4 Maintenance Schedule