Following Manual

Proper use of an Instant Detailer

Ok, you’ve reached that point where your anal about car care. You’ve invested time and money on proper car care products. You’ve spent a day or two, here and there, getting your car looking its best, you’ve polished, and waxed or sealed, now how do you keep it looking like that throughout the week, until your next wash? Not long ago, instant detailers (id’s) came along. Mothers, and Meguiars were two of the first car care companies to introduce it, under names Showtime and Quick Detailer, respectively. These are both good products when used for light cleaning of the vehicles surface. You simply spray on the surface, and wipe clean with a soft cloth…..it can’t be that easy, or can it?

It can be! But with so many instant detailers out there, which one should you choose? You could choose from Meguiars, Mothers, Black Magic, Zymol, Eagle One, etc. These all have their place, somewhere in car care. I guess if I had to pick one of the above, I would go with either Eagle Ones, or Mothers version. They are both very good, and reliable. There are also a few products available online which in my opinion are exceptional products. Clearkote, Poorboys, Adam’s (brand new), are a few.

Lets get to basics with instant detailers, what can and can’t they do?
First off I want to make clear, that these products are not intended to replace normal washing routines. There simply designed to remove light grade contaminants from the vehicles surface, i.e. dust, fingerprints, and an occasional visit from a seagull, when you’re in a pinch (no pun intended). You should always carry at least a 4oz bottle of ID when you’re on the road for these types of emergencies.
ID’s are really great for maintaining that just washed/waxed look. Some can be used on windows (Clearkote Quikshine is even recommended for glass, matter of fact, the only thing you cant use it on is your tires). Some are difficult to get off if over sprayed on windows, so read directions on the back label.

There very easy to use, your basically going to use the same technique you do while drying your car. Spray a light mist on the surface (in shade preferably), wipe with microfiber polishing towel in the same direction as you remove your polishing and wax/sealant products (This will remove contaminants). Turn towel over, and buff to finish (This will create the shine).

Most products will have either a polymer, carnauba, or silicone content which will deter further dirt and or dust from accumulating. Truly a time saver and can really extend the life of sealant or wax currently protecting your car. Most “speed details” only cost from about $.30 to $.75 per job, so a real affordable alternative to the bucket and sponge! Just keep in mind, this is a between washes, product, not intended to replace the bucket and sheepskin wash mitt!

I posted last week that I was doing my valve cover gasket and somebody wanted instructions so here they are.

First take off your engine cover and coilpack. The coilpacks are held in by a 5mm allen bolt (not sure if they are bolted down on newer motors) Now located the 5 10mm nuts that will need to be removed as well as the grounding wire. Remove these bolts using an untightening pattern similar to that of a lug bolts. Also unclip the 2 clips holding on the timing belt cover (located at the very front of the motor)



Next pull off the valve cover as well as the gasket making sure not to get any dirt in the motor.


After that clean off the mating surfaces on the head and the valve cover with a clean rag. Dont forget the center 4 holes for the spark plugs as well. After this apply a very light layer of gasket sealer/rtv along both the front and back of the motor especially in the corners and the "v" part of the head. Also apply to the matching side of the valve cover. (In the pic I only have the corners done but do all the way across the front and back of the motor.)


Finally put the gasket and valve cover on and torque the bolts down to 7ft/lbs, using a tightening pattern similar to that of lug bolts.

HOW TO : change a BPV on a 1997 - with pics.

I changed my BPV / DV (bypass valve / diverter valve) today (710N), so I snapped some pics and thought Id post in case anyone was interested.

I have a 1997, so the BPV is NOT in the same spot as most A4s. Its located higher up, and you really cant get to it from below. So, there is no need to jack up the car for this.

Tools needed:
1. Flathead and Phillips screwdriver.
2. Size 30 Torx socket attachment (for the headlight removal).
3. Small Hands.

Optional:
- Extra Vacuum hose. Size 3.5mm or 5/32".
- Little clamps for vac hose that you replace (can get at www.ecstuning.com). Or just use zip ties.


STEP 1: Remove airbox cover pieces.

Just pop off the plastic covers over the air box (you DO NOT have to remove the airbox, just the covers). The cover pops off, and the flex snorkel too. The little snorkel piece in the front has two screws holding it in.


STEP 2: Remove Headlight.

Theres three torx screws holding in the headlight. First pop out the sidemarker (this if for those with 2-piece). Then youll see the side screw. The other two are right on top of the headlight.



You can then pull out the light, and can easily pop off the wiring connector (just push the little silver clip down, and the plug comes out) then you can completely remove the headlight housing.

Heres what you see when you look in:



STEP 3: Loosen clamps to move the hose from the air box out of the way.



Just loosen the two clamps (number 1 and 2 in the pic) enough to you can move that big flex hose enough to get better access to the BPV clamps. Number 3 is optional if you think it will give you better access. That is the connector to the N75 valve. Theres a silver clip you can push in and pop off that connector. Just be careful with it.

Heres the hoses removed:




STEP 4: Get to the BPV!

Now when you hold that big hose out of the way, you should able to get a decent view of the BPV (which is behind the fan).



Theres two flathead screw clamps holding the BPV on to each hose attached to it. One of them you cannot get to yet. The first is a bit tricky. I put one arm in through the headlight hole to hold the BPV and clamp at an angle where I could get the screwdriver on it from above. Its a bit frustrating but very do-able. After you loosen it enough, pull that end of the BPV out of that hose. The other end (towards the IC piping) of the BPV is still attached. You should now be able to weasel your way over to that clamp to loosen.

Now the BPV is basically free. The only thing still attached should be the vacuum hose going to the manifold.



Remove that vac hose. If the hose is old/brittle then you should replace it now. The hose size is 5/32 inches (available at Autozone), its also the same as the 3.5mm ID hose.

Now hook up your new BPV to the vac hose, and put it all back together and check for leaks via your boost gauge. If you dont have a boost gauge, stop modding your car and get one before you bother modding!




search terms: changing BPV bypass valve DV diverter valve 710N 97 how to change BPV write-up install installing installation instructions puting in new BPV