Following Manual

So, I took on the challenge of swapping out my single-DIN, non-BOSE radio to upgrade to double-DIN and Nav+. Huge thanks to Lee @ NSX Jr and to Dirk (AudiB64US) @ NavPlus.us for all their help. Lee was a huge help in getting every little issue sorted out. Definite recommend to all interested in doing this retrofit.

Anyway, I figured that since I was already doing that upgrade, I might as well throw in the OEM Bluetooth module and kill two birds with one stone (as the saying goes...).
It always bothered me that I hadnt ordered these two options straight from the factory. So, I took it upon myself to ease my irritation

My camera ended up dying after taking snaps of the parts, so I didnt want to wait until it was charged to do the installation. So, the pics are of the parts, and finished results. I will describe in detail how to do the full install.

1) Full list of needed parts - pictures and part numbers:
NOTE: THESE ARE THE ONLY PARTS YOU NEED - dont waste you $ getting other parts that have been posted as necessary:

a) Radio removal keys
- I got these from eBay - $10 including shipping.

b) Double-DIN cage
PART NO: 8P0 858 005 A
CAN $95.00

c) Blanks (non-functional buttons)
PART NOS:
LEFT: 8P0 941 515 C 5PR
RIGHT: 8P0 941 516 C 5PR
CAN $10.73 each

ESP Switch:
PART NO: 8P0 927 134 C 5PR
CAN$ 35.00

*YOU DO NOT NEED A NEW HAZARD LIGHT SWITCH - Single-DIN Hazard light fits the same, even though part number is different*
** NONE OF THE OTHER BUTTONS WILL WORK - Single-DIN button, including ESP switch, are all larger**

d) Card Shelf:
PART NO: 8P0 941 561 E 5PR
CAN $85.00 (What a joke... )
*AGAIN, Single-DIN card shelf is too big for the double-DIN cage*
(sorry for the crappy pic)

e) Center trim (Goes around switches - again, double-DIN specific):
PART NO: 8P0 863 321 C 6PS
CAN $52.65

e1) THIS IS FOR US CARS ONLY:
Passenger Airbag Warning Light for double-DIN
PART NO: 8P0 919 234 A 5PR

e2) FOR THOSE WITH TPMS OR WANTING TO RETROFIT TPMS:
TPMS switch for double-DIN
PART NO: 8P0 927 121 A 5PR

f) RNS-E Unit
PART NO: 8P0 035 192
**NEW UNITS HAVE A LETTER AT THE END OF THE PART NO: B, C, F, and G**
Bought off eBay for US$900

g) RNS-E wiring harness - make sure to get the adapter to work with non-BOSE, w/out telephone (if no BT), w/ CD Changer
**Use this harness only if youre not retrofitting the Bluetooth module at the same time - that requires a different harness**
Can be had on eBay, or NavParts.com or Euro-Parts.us. RNS-E sellers should include this harness though.

h) GPS antenna and Radio antenna adapter
*These parts should also be included in your RNS-E purchase

i) Other needed things:
Painters tape (for protection)
Double-sided tape (optional)
Dremel +
flexible add-on (optional)
Soft cloth polishing dremel tool
Cutting tool
Tool kit - Hex nuts, torx bits, strong hands!

Bluetooth Parts - optional (not needed for RNS-E install)
*I purchased all these parts from Lee at NSX JR. Hes a great guy, helped me out with everything from the install to coding both my RNS-E and BT unit with VagCom

a) Bluetooth Module; RNS-E wiring harness (with mic and BT wires already built in)

b) BT antenna; BT mic

Now, if you have all these parts in hand, youre ready for the install.

INSTALLATION:
Unfortunately, like I said, I dont have pics from the install itself. Its just a matter of unscrewing and removal and replacing.

If youre worried about scratching up your dash, put a towel across your handles, and use painters tape on the outer trim of the centre console.
I didnt do either since I was exceedingly careful... but use your own judgement.

1) Remove Concert II radio
Using 2 radio removal keys, remove the old radio.
*Insert the keys with the hooks facing inward* Once the keys pop in, you cant remove them until the radio is out.
Once removed, disconnect the adapters. Dont worry about not knowing what goes where after - its a simple puzzle. They are colour coded and are size dependant as well.

2) Once the radio is removed, pull off the upper trim piece. Itll pop out easily.

3) Remove blank switches, ESP switch, Hazard ligh switch, and Card holder.
The blanks pop out easily.
The ESP and Hazard switches need to be pulled out and unplugged - again dont worry about confusing them later - colour coded white and black.
The Card holder requires a fine tool to push down on small clips on the upper right and left side. (Easily seen with the drawer open).

4) Remove the climate control unit.
Itll pull out easily with the rest gone. Unhook all the cables - again colour coded and size dependant for later.

Now it gets fun.

5) Removal of ash tray.
Open the ashtray. Hook your fingers underneath where the ashtray meets the shift boot. Lift up firmly. The shift boot trim should pop up. There are two clips in the front and two in the back. Pull the boot up all the way over the gear shift (for 6MT) and put the car in 4th or 6th to get the stick out of the way.

6) Remove glove box and cover underneath steering wheel.
This is a simple process of removing bolts. There are many.

Under steering wheel:
a) Push light switch in, and twist to the right. It should pop out. Disconnect the two connections, and put switch away for later.
b) Remove fuse box panel cover.
c) Unscrew all the bolts underneath the fuse panel. Its obvious which ones are holding the lower dash on.
d) There are two bolts in the foot well. One on the right and one on the left. Unscrew both of those and the lower dash should come off.
e) The top will tilt down. With the top part down, pull outward and the rest of it should come off.

Glove Box:
a) Remove side panel
b) Open glove box and remove everything.
c) Unscrew all bolts - 3 or 4 on side by panel, another 6 or so found after opening the glove box.
d) After all the bolts are removed, the glove box will fall downward. Unhook the pass. airbag connection, the CD changer cable, and the in-box light cable.

7) Remove center console handles.
In the picture below, see the four circles in the shift boot area. Those need to be undone.
On the underside of the handles, in the middle, is a hole reaching to a HEX bolt. From memory, I think it was an 8mm bolt (could be 6mm...). Those two bolts need to be undone.

8) Unscrew the single-DIN cage
Where the red circles are, are torx screws. Unscrew all of them and another two screws on the side (glove box and driver foot well lower dash) and this should completely loosen the single-DIN. Loosening all these screws will also allow the handle bars to completely come off.

9) Remove the single-DIN cage
This sounds easier than it is. Its not meant to come out this way, but it will come. Pull out and twist down to the right. That worked for me.

**At this point, I had everything out. The ashtray and the "storage" area behind it were out. The entire dash had been taken out.**

Alright, very nice. The removing aspect of the job is done.... now its time for the good stuff. Installing.

10) Install the double-DIN cage
Again, sounds easier than it is. Just keep working it, and it will eventually go in. This is the part when I started sweating - taping the area would have been a great idea, but I managed not to scratch anything.

11) Line up the RNS-E unit in the cage.
Once the double-DIN cage is in, screw in the torx screws, but dont tighten.

12) Slide in the RNS-E unit, but not all the way in. Dont re-attach the cables.
This is check to make sure that the Nav+ will sit straight. If its straight, remove the RNS-E and then go hard with the torx screws.

13) Once all the torx screws have been tightened, install the RNS-E unit.
Attach the new cable harness, GPS antenna, Radio antenna, and push the unit all the way until it clicks.

14) Install the blanks, the two switches, and the new card tray.

15) Install the trim surround.

Now the sensitive part... cutting the climate control unit.
I didnt feel like shelling out $1,000 to buy a double-DIN climate control. So, I used a Dremel to shave down the sides so that it would fit.

16) Make a template of the shape of the new climate control.
I took a piece of cardboard and kept cutting it until it fit into the climate control area (on the bottom) like the actual unit would.
Once I had the exact shape, I centered it on my climate control and cut two rectangles for the knobs.
With the template centered on the climate unit, I traced the outline on it as the marks for cutting.

17) Using a dremel, shave down the sides of the climate control unit.
Take your time with this... keep shaving and testing, shaving and testing.

18) Once the fit is perfect, using a soft cloth polisher, buff the sides of the unit so that its smooth and not jagged from the sanding.

Hardest part is over!

19) Attach all the cables to climate control unit.

20) Wire your GPS antenna to a good location. I wired mine to the driver side fuse box. I get 4-8 satellites there all the time.
A lot of people have wired their antennas up in the instrument cluster.
Its magnetic so itll attach just about anywhere.
If youre really bold, you can get a FAKRA extension and wire it up to the existing sharkfin antenna on the roof... totally not necessary though.

21) Do not turn on car yet! If this is the end of the install, make sure you reinstall all the cables - light switch, pass. airbag, cd changer etc. or youll get a bunch of vag-com codes.

22) Put everything back together. Power on car. Hopefully everything should work - normal satellite reception is > 3.

23) For the ashtray area, I ended up doing a little bit of crude modifying. Since the double-DIN sits so much lower than the single-DIN, the storage area behind the ashtray is essentially eliminated. I didnt want to get a new bezel and trim that would be stuck in a hole Id never see.
After removing the existing storage area trim, youll see four tabs at the back. The two in the middle dont line up with the double-DIN.
I snapped them off.
The result... the same flooring of the storage area behind the ashtray, and more $$ in my pocket.

24) ADMIRE YOUR HANDYWORK!!

25) Get your Vag Com cable out to do the necessary coding. If you dont have one, your dealer should be able to do the necessary coding for you.
----------------------------------------------
FOR BLUETOOTH RETROFIT, READ ON
1) I installed the module in my glovebox.

2) Run mic wire to preferred location.
I ran the mic wire up the passenger side A-pillar, across the headliner, and pulled it out in the overhead light console.
The mic now sits in the light console where those vents are, hidden from view. I get perfect voice reception with it up there.

3) Re-install everything.

4) Vag Com coding changes.
--------------------------------------------------------
Vag Com coding:

1) Select 19 - CAN gateway” and go into the Long Coding helper

Check on Byte 03, bit 7 (for telephone) - IF APPLICABLE, Bluetooth only
Check on Byte 03, bit 3 (for navigation)

2) Select 16 - Steering wheel: current coding 02022, new coding 04022

3) Select 37 - Navigation: current coding 0209217, new coding 0205617

4) Select 77 - telephone: current coding 0000000, new coding 0011477 - BLUETOOTH ONLY

**NOTE:
1) Since 6MT sports dont have DIS (in dash display), well always get an instrument cluster fault code. Theres no way to get rid of that fault.
2) Since there is no diversity antenna, all will get a "ZF Antenna" fault code in RNS-E (Select 77).

For example:

Steering Wheel:
1 Fault Found:
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
004 - No Signal/Communication

Nav:
2 Faults Found:
00858 - Connection; Radio ZF Output to Antenna Amplifier
011 - Open Circuit
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
008 - Implausible Signal

Radio:
2 Faults Found:
00858 - Connection; Radio ZF Output to Antenna Amplifier
011 - Open Circuit
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
008 - Implausible Signal
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, that should do it, for this DIY.

BEFORE:

And some pics of the end result:
AFTER:

Oh, and whats this? Engineering Mode... very cool, if youre into a little bit more technical info: Location, Altitude, Road Speed...

EDITED TO INCLUDE PART NUMBERS FOR
1) Double-DIN Passenger Airbag Warning Light - for US A3s
2) Double-DIN TPMS Switch

Disclaimer - I am not repsonsable for any damages that may occur from this procedure. I am simply showing you what worked for me because the ross-tech web site did NOT work for me and didnt work a ton of other people. So here it goes...

Have you received a new remote that you want to program to your car but find out that THIS (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...-matching.html) didnt help you out much?


Remote Matching

For this procedure, you must have
1) VAG COM
2) A laser cut key (just one is "needed")
3) Up to 4 compatable remotes to program


Procedure for matching remote controls to most VW & Audi vehicles:

Under "Select Control Module"

"Select"

"46 - Cent. Conv." or "35 - Cent. Locking" (depending on year and make/model)

"Adaptation - 10"

First enter channel "00" as this will set all settings back to factory.

Enter channel "01" (Again "21 depending on make/model).

"Read"

This is supposed to display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value". But a lot of people actually get 0. Like I did...

According to ross-tech, this is what you must do next which is the part that messes everyone up - "Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4 (including any existing keys) in New Value." Do not do that. Instead, for your first remote just put in a one.

"Test"

Verify that the number in "Test Value" is the one you entered.

Now this is another place that ross-tech tells you to do something that doesnt work... They tell you to hit the "Save" button, but what are you saving? Absolutly nothing!! Notice up at the top it should say something along the lines of "Key Adaptation." If it says this, you have 15 seconds to push the unlock button on your remote (hold for two seconds) or until it says "Key learned." NOW is where you hit save.

"Save"

It should now ask if you are sure you want to save. Of course you do.

The procedure also says right about now that the car will give you some kind of sign that the remote was learned such as a (lights flash, horn beep, etc.) but as long as the VAGCOM said "learned" it will be fine.

But for remote number two pretty much follow the same above for number one. Now you actually have to put in 2 for test value, 3 in test value for the third and 4 for the fourth. I hope this makes scence. It seems like it will overwrite the last remote but it does not...

Also, here is some helpful info for your programming... In order to find if your remote works with your car and you can use it, go to "Measuring Block" 006 - Go! and look at field 2... There should be four bits in this field (all 0000)... Hit a button on your remote, one of the bits should now change to a 1 depending on the button you hit! I dont know what measuring block it will be for the other cars... This procedure works 100% on my 2000 Audi TT and 2001 Audi A4. Will be testing others soon!!

BTW there are many, many ways to HW things for your car. This is MY way. It works for me, its safe. blah blah blah. If you have other suggestions please share.


The cig lighter is not working for you, I know that for a fact. Hardwire it. Its a NO-BRAINER. I have hardwired radar, cell phone chargers, garmin gps units, you name it. Ive only lost 1 vehicle to fire from my installation tactics. J/K. Its easy and safe. DIY!!!



Since this pic was taken, I have relocated the plug to above the center of the dash and not the far left corner. You will get better rear coverage if your unit is centered.

Open the fuse box located on the left of the dash board, its panel is available only when you open the d side door. look for one of the two or three open fuse locations that have a metal fitting inside. cut the end off of your radar detector plug (removing the cig. lighter piece). leave enough room in case you later on wish to add the cig lighter.

wire the positive into another wire that has an integrated fuse.

or if you like a blade fuse use


splice the positive side to this new wire, then plug it into the fuse box using a simple insert connector that I call a fuse tap.






You can plug into an open spot in your fuse box, or tap into an existing fuse (connect to something not essential to your cars safety or performance).. regardless, use the inline fuse wire. This will blow first if you have an issue with your radar.

the ground wire is easy. there is a screw to the right of the fuse box, use a connector again and use this for your ground. it will look similiar to this...


once you close the fuse box door, nothing will be visible, it will appear very clean.

run the power wire out of the fuse box, up and to the left, sneak it behind the pillar and squeeze it out to the windshield area. You dont have to remove the pillar. I lined a very thin tool with electrical tape and used it to push the power wire down and under the pillar and then around the outer border of the dash. just use a flat head or something thin, but strong. I lined it with tape to make it smooth so it wouldnt tear anything.

oh and yes, it will work without the inline fuse, but its risky.

credits: AUDIWORLD PICTURE POSTER
Looking to trade 2 front PREMIUM A3 (lt.silver) seats + CASH...
For 2 front SPORT seats, MidAtlantic area.

Its not what you know...
It is how you communicate that knowledge to others.

Revo Stage2 programming.
EIP CAI + Air-flow fog grill.
Milltek turbo-back plumbing c/o: Stratmosphere.
BBS CK 18x8 et44 c/o: TireRack.
Michelin PS2 225/45f & 235/45r.
HPA Coilovers.
H&R rsb kit + "C" Diverter valve c/o: ECS Tuning.
Votex Body kit c/o: DonRosenImports.
AWE boost gauge.
33% SolarGuard.
Alpine, Focal, JL, Sirius.
GLI pedal kit + TT (mk2) dead pedal.
Euro-switch + Euro-Tails c/o: VagParts.com.
Escort x50 (hw).
*** for more info, click the A3 pic.

Overview
The 97-99 A8 is prone to two types of fuel leaks, one coming from the high pressure fuel line under the hood, and the other at the gas tank sending unit seal in the trunk. This procedure covers the high pressure fuel line under the hood. It is normally noticed during the cold winter months. The fitting leaks when very cold and fuel leaks out. It creates a smell of fuel in the passenger compartment. Once the fuel line heats up a small amount (such as after the car is turned off in the winter and the engine heat causes it to increase in temperature), it usually seals up.

Disclaimer
Fuel leaks and lines are serious business. This procedure is for a repair of the line versus replacement of the entire fuel line system. The fuel lines (which are all together as a kit) from the dealer is about $800 for the parts. Then it has to be installed from the engine compartment back to the fuel tank. This procedure repairs the leak, costs about $10.00 and takes about an hour.

Audipages.com takes no responsibility for this repair! Use it at your own risk.

Supplies Required

• 17 mm open ended wrench
• 14 mm open ended wrench
• Accetone or equivalent
• 80 grit sandpaper
• Fuel resistant epoxy kit

Supplies required for repair. Make sure that the epoxy kit is fuel resistant.

Procedure
The fuel hose leaks on the high pressure side at one of the fittings. The fuel hoses are sold as one piece from the dealer, which include the supply, return and one other hose attached. It is a one piece kit that runs from the engine to the gas tank.



High pressure fuel line leak location. When it leaks, it just drips out. The fitting breaks down the pressure, so the leak is actually very low pressure.



Fuel line components.

Remove the low pressure fuel line from the fuel regulator. This is required to get proper access to the high pressure line.

Relieve the residual fuel pressure in the fuel line by cracking the high pressure line fittings. This is accomplished by using the 17 and 14 mm wrenches. Place a paper towel under the fuel line to capture the fuel that will drip.



Remove low pressure line, relieve high pressure line fuel pressure.

Remove the high pressure line, and clean with accetone. Using the 80 grit sandpaper, prep the surface by scuffing it with the sandpaper. Scuff the pipe and the fuel line fitting. After scuffing is complete, clean thoroughly with accetone.

Loosely attach the high pressure fuel line. Ensure that the angle on the line is correct for the engine plastic cover and that the low pressure line will not interfere.

Using the epoxy, place it on the fuel line. Perform this step in accordance with the instructions on the epoxy package. Let it cure in accordance with the instructions, preferably overnight. After the epoxy is cured, tighten the high pressure fittings and reinstall the low pressure line. Start the car and ensure there are no leaks. Reinstall engine plastic covers.

I just finished hardwiring my V1, using the sunroof method, and Im all smiles!!! It took me about 2 hours to figure out what was what, and then when I was finished, it was all worth it. I will try to get some pictures taken, I really didnt even think about it till I was done.

Keep in mind, this was on a B6, so I dont know if its that easy for a B5 or B7, but it might be the same. I didnt want to run a ground wire all the way throught the A-pillar, and down to the fuse box. There are 2 bolts that you can ground to less than 6 inches from where the 12v lead is. The only problem is that they are underneath the headliner, and a #*@&! to get too, unless you are using a small @ss wrench. It took me a while to get the bolt loose, to get the negative ground on there.

I mounted the V1 above the rearview mirror, to the right side.

I really need pictures on here! Sorry, but I had to rant, very happy with it!

Ok, so here are some pictures!!!


I started by removing the plastic coverings to the lights, which allow you to see two phillips head screws. Remove these, and the whole piece will drop out of the headliner with a little pull.


This picture shows where the 12V lead is plugged into... This is a switched lead, which turns on and off with the cars ignition, perfect for a radar detector.


A close up of the 12V lead...


This is where I put the negative ground to... Its a realy pain in the @ss to get too, but if you use a small wrench, you can get the bolt loose, and put your lead between the bolt and the frame of the car... I would not reccomend removing the bolt completly, because it might be that much harder to get it back on... If you dont use this location for a ground, you may find yourself trying to route a negative ground wire all the way down to your fuse box, and who really wants to do that?


A close up of the pain in the @ss bolt, A.K.A. "Negative Ground"


The finished product!!! Just tuck all of your loose wires into the headliner somewhere. I would reccomend that you zip tie the extra cabling, so that if you have to open up the compartment again, you dont have a bunch of cables drop down. All in all, you are left with a clean looking radar mount position, about 4 inches of coord thats visible, and the radar unit is just below the factory tint level, which does not inhibit the radar detectors performance. Very happy with it!